But for a pretty simple layout, I can't figure out the issue. I wouldn't mind bypassing the carbon canister by joining the two vacuum lines together and double checking to make sure that's not the problem. I do have Hervey's silicone vacuum lines on my car and I'm not sure if something weird like the diameter is off but I'm trying to think of everything. All vacuum connections appear to be tight but I'll confirm vacuum is coming from the line going into the engine underneath the W pipe. Things I know are good is the check valve, vacuum lines are clear, carbon canister appears to be ok and has a blanking cap on it. Tank pressurizes when the tank is maybe 1/2 full or less and vapors are coming out of the fuel cap (which I know is good) and eventually through the air vent and stinking the cabin. Was there any followup or solution to this thread? I'm having the exact same problem. If you haven't double checked the boot, as David suggested, I would, while you can smell the fumes. Check the orifice in the cold start valve air tube and other things mentioned on the following pages while you are at it. Follow the vent path (from filler to canister) and make sure all are clear, bbut don't leak. Take another look at the link I posted above, (here is a better diagram ). Normally the system "vents" both ways, vapors to be burnt when a purge signal (vacuum) is sent to the canister, and, allows air to enter the tank to replace the space occupied by fuel as it is consumed (to prevent it from collapsing), but, ideally, NEVER to the atmosphere. But more important, if the roll over valve, its hose from the tank, the vent tube, or hose connecting it to the canister is stopped up, it can cause the tank to collapse. To answer your question, it's possible but very unlikely. Would that block the flow of vapors to the canister and could it cause my fuel tank to pressurize?Ĭontrary to several posts in this thread, it is a closed system - It is supposed to pressurize!
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